Two-year Anniversary

Two years ago today, we returned from a very memorable trip. Photos courtesy Dr. Welsh. My fault completely for not putting them up sooner. Better late than never. Enjoy. -Caroline.

 

 

 

Voila la Sainte Messe!

     One of the best parts about travelling abroad is the chance encounter with a stranger, or the unexpected happening not on the itinerary. On a summer’s day in Tokyo many years ago I wandered alone into an elaborate Shinto ceremony at an outdoor shrine attended by many dignitaries; it remains a cherished memory, the elaborate rituals of the ministers and grave solemnity of the attendees, my view into something no other foreigner saw that day. On this French pilgrimage something reciprocal happened Wednesday morning, June 15^th, two days after finishing the march with a triumphal Mass in the cathedral. I was in the village, coming back from drying laundry, the laverie having opened automatically with a click of the lock at seven. Fifty minutes later, while winding through empty streets with a duffle bag stuffed with warm clothes I passed a solitary young Japanese man, holding a guidebook and looking around. He was tall and thin and decently dressed and normally I would have greeted him but I was in a hurry. I soon arrived at the gate outside the crypt door and stood around with the rest of our group waiting for someone to lead us down for 8am Mass. I noticed the young man not far away eyeing us; he must have followed me. I approached and he asked in halting French and then English why we were assembled. I told him “Pour la Sainte Messe … For Holy Mass” but that drew a blank so I invited him to attend with us to find out. We made our way down the dark stairs, past the side chapels, to the main altar area in the hall of the crypt, where the frescoes are fragmented and faded and much older than the church above. During Mass I helped him follow. He seemed to know this was something special and was reverent throughout. He followed the missal easily, better than one of my sons would have. (They were probably sleeping still at the hotel.) He did not seem bored at all but watched the action at the altar closely. Being there with him let me see the old rite with new eyes, taking note of the deep bowing by the priest and server, so consonant with his culture. He even knelt quietly on the cold stone floor, staying in place while the rest of us went for Communion. Afterwards he thanked me sincerely, smiling. Obviously not the usual sort of tourist activity for him, something to write home about. On the way out I told him, “ Voila la Sainte Messe. This was what this entire cathedral was built for, the Holy Sacrifice.” Not many tourists get to see that side of Chartres cathedral and as he walked away I gave thanks to Our Lady for having met the fellow, paying back a debt incurred when the Japanese let this gaijin hang around a shrine in Tokyo.


Austin Welsh MD

A Rich Opportunity

I suppose many of the young people were often surprised by the differences of European culture. Tiny cars, tiny house, tiny bathrooms, tiny showers in tiny bathrooms, tiny rooms, extra long pillows in tiny rooms, etc… As De Tocqueville once remarked, you really learn about and appreciate your mother country when you leave it.

I hope our two weeks in France were simply not just naturally enlightening and fun (I wouldn’t mind another chocolate croissant right now) but a rich opportunity for the young people to experience a fuller meaning of our beautiful religion which was and still is present in a culture deeply influenced by Catholicism. France is the eldest daughter of the Church. I firmly believe that it is not enough to pass moral rules to our youth. Unless we stuff the imaginations and move the desires of our youth with many good and beautiful things, we will lose them. This comes about in art and its many forms such as music, painting, and architecture. Our young people must recognize the need to multiply these pleasant signs that teach and reinforce our Faith in our culture. The Chartres Pilgrimage Tour is one way of doing that (while walking and suffering with 10,000 other people who also happen to agree with you).

It was wonderful to see the Gothic churches, elegant yet massive, and all the art, sculpted figures, paintings, and stained glass that adorned them. These were constructed over hundreds of years to attempt to provide a fitting atmosphere for the Eucharist and the Mass. We saw this, even at Chartres, which was made as a fitting house for the veil of Our Lady.

In a certain sense, the first few days of the pilgrimage are perhaps the most important days of the entire two weeks since it is during the actual walking pilgrimage that the chapter develops its unity amongst its members. I was very glad to hear how well all the members of the KC chapter suffered. I hope this will not be the last Chartres chapter that goes from Kansas City. 

Fr.  Joseph Lee FSSP

Chartres Pilgrimage and Tour 2011

We left for Chicago from Kansas City on Wednesday, June 8th. The flight from Chicago to Paris was about eight hours.
I guess some of us slept.

Then again, some of us didn't.



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In the words of Overalls, "I've never stayed up all night before!"


You can view all our crazy pics here.

We arrived Thursday morning to discover the Canadian group we were supposed to meet up with was delayed and wouldn't be arriving until Friday morning.

 

To add to the confusion, Anthony the seminarian was missing. After hours of playing games in the airport parking lot, sitting in the bus and hugging the bus driver,

 

Anthony turned up and we finally drove to Sacre Coeur where we would be staying.

The basilica sits at the highest point in Paris and looks over the whole city.

 

Inside, adoration of the Blessed Sacrament has been continual for 125 years. We were very privileged to join in the adoration that night and the next day. Abbe Lee celebrated Mass for us in the crypt. 

Later that day, we saw the incorrupt bodies of Saints Vincent de Paul, Catherine Laboure, and Louise de Marillac.


Friday we visited Notre Dame Cathedral. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves, eh.
  




The Chartres Pilgrimage began on Saturday in front of Notre Dame at 6:30AM.

"Originating in the 12th century, with some interruptions since, this is now Western Europe’s largest walking pilgrimage. A plenary indulgence is obtainable under the usual conditions. The pilgrimage begins in the early morning of the Vigil of Pentecost when each chapter gets itself and its baggage organized on the plaza in front of Notre Dame de Paris before filing into the cathedral for the blessing and the dispatching of the pilgrims. We carry our chapter banners high for the three days of the magnificent pélé, singing hymns and Rosaries, listening to meditations from our chaplain, reflecting in silence, and singing marching songs to keep pace and raise spirits. The road to Chartres is an arduous Catholic exercise which we do for the glory of God and Our Lady, for our own intentions and those of our loved ones. The burden is lightened of course by the beautiful French countryside of the Ile-de-France and Beauce regions. By noon on the third day, Pentecost Monday, the spires of Chartres cathedral are within reach. The Pontifical Mass in Chartres Cathedral brings the beautiful and invigorating pilgrimage to its dramatic liturgical climax. The chapter banquet followed by a good night’s sleep completes the unforgettable adventure." -- St. Clement Chapter Brochure

This interesting video explains the pilgrimage well. In my opinion though, it forgets to stress the pain pilgrims go through. (Oh -- in the beginning it shows the Canadian chapter and I believe that is Dominic, eighth year veteran, carrying the flag!)
In this video, we are singing the Hail Mary in French while walking. As you can see, the line of pilgrims stretches on forever.

Here, we are in a field for Mass around noon on the second day.

We were very blessed to have fairly good weather this year. From what I've heard, it can be really tough when it pours because luggage is soaked, you are soaked and the trails are ankle deep mud.
On the third day, a Solemn High Mass was celebrated in Chartres Cathedral. Exhausted pilgrims everywhere, but there was certainly a feeling of joy in everyone's heart!

   

 

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Pictures only scrape the surface of this stunning cathedral.

This is Our Lady's Veil (the reason the Cathedral was built).



We stayed in Chartres both Monday and Tuesday night.We had a picnic lunch in the garden next to the cathedral and dinner at the restaurant across from it.

After Mass in the crypt of Chartres on Wednesday morning, a long bus ride to Our Lady of Fontgombault Abbey ensued. Fr. Huang and Fr. McNeely explained that the Abbey is named after Gombault (pronounced gombo), a hermit from the 4th century. Font means fountain, so therefore, it is "The Fountain of Gombault" or Fontgombault Abbey.
Anyway, we toured Gombault's caves and attended the Divine Office with the monks.
If you've never heard Gregorian Chant before, Fontgombault is definitely the place to start. http://gloria.tv/?media=151367
Quite beautiful, eh? (No, I'm not Canadian, but I guess spending two weeks with them makes saying "eh" a little easier.)

Gombault's (or some hermit's) tiny church in the woods

View of the Abbey from the woods near Gombault's cave

Next was a trip to Nevers, where the incorrupt body of St. Bernadette lies. Being the absent-minded person I am, I completely forgot to take any pictures, either of the chapel or her body. Of course, if you'd like to see it, just google it! Oh dear, what would life be like without Google?

Saturday we drove to Ars and stopped at Paray-le-Monial along the way. Paray-le-Monial is where Jesus appeared to Saint Margaret Mary Alococque.

We arrived in Ars at around 5PM on Saturday and didn't leave until Monday morning. Ars is famous for the humble parish priest St. John-Marie Vianney who spent long hours in the confessional. His body is incorrupt and Abbe Huang celebrated Mass on Sunday at the altar below his body.


Across from his parish church (which has been expanded into a small basilica) is the Cure's simple house.

This is a painting of the Blessed Virgin Mary which the Cure liked and had placed in his home. From time to time, it was found in the morning, splattered with mud by the devil.

Joigny, our next stop, was the home of Saint Sophie Barat. We were able to stay in her house and I actually slept right across from her bedroom (which had since been converted to a chapel which housed the Blessed Sacrament). The gardens were beautiful and had at least twenty different berries and fruits, not to mention all the lovely flowers! The cathedral in Joigny was equally beautiful and the experience was only enhanced by the fact that a professional organist was practicing when we visited. Fortunately, he spoke English, so we spoke with him while he showed us what the organ could do. He was truly incredible. (And he let me play Phantom of the Opera on the eighteenth century organ!)


The cathedral of Vezelay was pretty amazing too. It was at the top of a hill which took about fifteen minutes to walk up. St. Bernard preached the Crusades here; that's how ancient it is!


Next was the chateau of King Louis XVI. Unfortunately, it was closed so we couldn't go inside, but the extensive grounds and gardens were enough to keep our heads spinning. The utter wealth and extravagance was unbelievable and it was only one of King Louis's four chateaus.



And this is only a portion of it; I certainly couldn't take pictures of everything!

Here is the Honorable Jason Osterhaus, the County Commissioner of Johnson County, giving a public address about libraries from the steps of the chateau.
In all seriousness, it lasted about 2 minutes, as we were the only ones who could understand him. Thanks for keeping the trip interesting, Honorable! Really, though, did you wear a Superman shirt in Paris?
Here's Jason again.

Our last stop was Avon, near Fontainbleau. It was a nice place to relax and rest up for the trip home; however, I'm told some of us stayed up playing cards till 2AM. I certainly had nothing to do with it.
Here's my "White Lady" ice cream that I ordered in one of the many little cafes,



to say nothing of the "chocolat pain" or similar delicious pastries!

I would like to thank/blame Abbes Lee and Huang for everything and anything! You are both awesome!
Thank you, Fr. McNeely for a whirling ride on the Paris metro! Thanks to Emma for a great organized chaos!
Dr. McNeely, Dr. Welsh, and Mr. Hamilton too!
Oh, and of course Helena, without who nothing would have happened.

Last but not least, the THANK YOU goes to St. Joseph. Truly, the pilgrimage, fundraising and all, was made possible because we are under his powerful patronage.

I cannot wait to go back and I know I'm already "homesick" for France!

Caroline Spaedy